When I was growing up, my garden in Saône was home to an apple tree which, every autumn, gave us plenty of Reinette, a variety much loved in France. This small fruit is stunning in taste and bears the rusty colours of autumn.

Many of these apples were destined for my mother’s kitchen, where no time was wasted – they were cored, peeled, sliced, and into the pan; sugared, sizzled, topped with pastry and caramelised to become a sweet, buttery tarte tatin. Many others were transformed into compotes or laid in the cellar, to be stored for winter. I have always remembered that apple tree fondly.

I look forward to autumn all year long. The perfect season for Apple Tart Maman Blanc. The secret is to choose an apple with the right balance of acidity and sugar, and a great flavour. See my recipe for some suggestions. And to ensure a crisp, cooked pastry base, I also use a tart ring placed directly on a hot baking stone. I hope you will give it a try. The baking aromas are divine!